New process video about making drypoints.

I made a couple of drypoints this year of lockdowns as you need very little to do them , main thing is a press, and I am lucky to have a little table top one at home.

As with all printmaking processes the small details of how you do them differ between people and their preferred ways of working, so this is how I tend to do it 🙂

The one of many project on instagram is a great thing, and must have raised quite a bit of money for charity by now.

As always thank you for visiting and reading and watching! Have a lovely day 🙂

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Non toxic Printmaking- Cleaning up oil based inks with vegetable oil.

I have for a while now been trying to do most of my cleaning of oil based inks with vegetable oil. The interest in safe wash inks, so called eco friendly and non toxic, is because they are easier to clean up . You can just use soap and water even though they are oil based. Great! But this special ability, being water soluble means it reduces its range of uses as a printmaking ink in my opinion. I have bought a few tubes myself , and have used them for monoprinting, or Kitchen Litho, forgetting about the water soluble nature, and then stuff starts bleeding and not working … and THEN I remember about the safe wash inks, Doh!

Looking into non toxic ways of printmaking , I came across the technique of using veg oil to clean up. Gave it a try and have been using it ever since.

Here is my video on Youtube where I give a really quick demo of this. ( really quick as my camera battery was about to die!)

By removing white spirit from cleaning up oil based inks, you remove the biggest reason that it is deemed toxic for the printmaker. And arguably the thing that would make it the most un-environmentally friendly. The traditional oil based inks I use, the base is linseed oil, a plant based oil , so less fossil fuel usage.

Safe wash my not be all its cracked up to be is all I’m saying. What do you think?

New Video About Magpie Rhyme Book

soooo this summer holiday I have tried to finish off a few projects that have been lingering.

One of them is my book called A Magpie Rhyme , it is an artist book (which is just a hand made book by an artist) . I finally made the last few in the edition ( only 10 in it ) and I wanted to make a video about the process.

I have done both of those things so yay to me 😀 , the video is up on you tube now.

I missed out the actual printing of the linos, but I think people can understand what that might look like. Putting the video together and I forgot how many parts of the process there are!

Any way would love you to have a watch and let me know what you think,

cheers 🙂

link :

 

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Kitchen Litho How To

Hello, in a previous post I talked about how excitied I was to finally try Kitchen Litho as it is known. Here is my attempt at a how to on the process. It is not a very hard proccess at all , or even that long winded, and I am sure you could have a go and have loads of fun with it !

I originally found this process in a copy of Printmaking Today,  back in 2012 written by a lady called Emilie Aizier-Brouard. 

 

Step 1: Gather STUFF!

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  • Cola (fresh is better )
  • Aluminium foil (the stronger the better )
  • tape ( parcel is better )
  • clean damp sponge (the wetter the better !!… er, no, wet but not dripping is best)
  • a plastic or metal sheet to wrap foil around
  • thick oil based ink and roller
  • a plastic tub to hold you bath of cola. (not shown here )
  • Paper to print on , and blotting paper if using soaked paper
  • Drawing materials:  softest graphite, anything oily to make a mark with , permenant markers, biros. (plenty of chance to experiment here )

 

Step 2: Preparing your plate ( fiddliest bit)

wrapping plate

You will be drawing on the mat side of the foil, BUT BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH IT WITH YOUR BEAR HANDS !  Any hint of grease will show in your final print ( see my print below *sigh*), wear disposable gloves to be sure, I did not have any to hand….

Take your plate , I used an old bit of perspex to wrap my foil around.  Cut the foil larger than your plate . then with mat side out ( make sureit is resting on something clean and grease free) wrap your sheet.

back of plate

Here is the back side of my wrapped and stuck plate. Parcel tape is good, as it is water resitant and thin . Make sure that there are not any gaps or holes where cola can get underneath your foil otherwise it will get messy! Cola squirting out when you least expect it …

I used clean( ish ) tissue paper to work on to help keep the plate grease free.

 

Step 3 : Drawing on the plate

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I chose a picture that I thought would suit the sketchy line style that this printing process is best at.

I kept to a simple selection of drawing materials, soft grapihte pencil ( 8B or 9B is  best) and a graphite stick, again soft.

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You have to keep your hand from touching the suface as you draw. I like this as it keeps you from spending too long on the drawing . From my brief foray into this process the print quality is lovely but leans towards the informal. It would be hard to make it very clean and precise. I might be wrong and would love to know  what other people are doing with the process.

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Finished drawing

Step 4: Sensitizing the plate

cola bath time

Pour your fresh cola into a plastic tub, enough to submerge your plate, and leave for 5 seconds and then go and rinse with clean water. Simple as that !!

IF I had used other drawing tools, such as oil pastels,  and was going to try to print in another colour other than black, I would now have to wash off the drawn marks after sensitizing the plate.  To do this you pour a little oil ( such as rapeseed) on the plate and wipe it off quickly and gently with a soft cloth, you should see a phantom image apear . then wipe over with a clean damp sponge .  If you left marks on the plate which left a residue,  when you tried to ink it up it would clog.

The phosphoric acid and gum arabic in the cola makes the areas that have not been drawn on , hydrophilic. This means water will sit in a film on the surface, but be repelled from the drawn areas, which will catch the ink from your roller.

Senefelders Maxim – water repels grease.

 

Step 5: Inking and Printing

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Ink rolled out , Im using intaglio ink, Raw Umber and bone black . Thick ink is important, but I’m not sure why!

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Before you roll your ink over, you need to make sure you wipe over your plate with your wet sponge, getting the right amount of water on the plate is important and you will just have to try it out and see what works for you.

When you first ink up your plate it will need several passes of ink , wiping over with your sponge in between, and probably will not be as dense a print as the next one, as more ink gets built up on the plate. S0101015

You can see here where in the top half of the image I touched it with my fingers  it has picked up my finger prints, woops!  If there are areas where ink is gathering and its not supposed to be , you can use a brush dipped in cola to clean off those areas .

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Printing using my mini printing press.

I tried both damp and non damp paper , using  a spoon as a baren and the printing press to compare results.  I will post the results in another entry.

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I got at least 10 Prints from this plate , and I think I could get more from it  which is pretty good going.

My technique needs perfecting as my plate gathered quite a bit of ink as it went along. I will try;

less ink on roller,

adding chalk to ink to make it thicker,

wiping with sponge before every pass of roller,

and having roller that is same size as plate.

and being more careful touching the edges of my plate in the first place !

Hope you find this post useful and I would love to see what you make with it .

Thanks for reading.